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Reptile Care

Getting A Musk Turtle

Getting A Musk Turtle

The Musk Turtle is a small turtle that is native to eastern United States and southeastern parts of Canada. Musk turtles are a fully aquatic turtle species that inhabit boggy or marshy wetland habitats with clear, shallow slow-moving waters. They thrive in environments near freshwater sources, including ponds and lakes and are frequently found in mud and reeds near these areas and are seen swimming in waters or sunning on logs.

They also like areas with high humidity. These small aquatic turtles are very active, are black, brown or grey in colour and have a long neck, but rather short legs. They have yellow lines on the neck, which can often be seen from above when they are swimming. A species requiring generally similar husbandry in captivity is River Cooter turtles.

Adult Male Size: 4 to 5 inches carapace (10 to 12.5 cm) Adult Female Size: 3 to 4 inches carapace (7.5 to 10 cm) Males can be identified by their longer tails that are topped with spiked protrusions, whereas females have much shorter tails without a spike. If they feel stressed or threatened they may release a foul musky odour from scent glands near their tails. Life expectancy up to 50 years under ideal conditions

 

Housing

Your musk turtle should have a enclosure with a basking area, opportunities to climb and the ability to swim and dive. Your turtle should have two platforms/ramps – one to be able to bask under a light and another in a cooler area. A depth gradient is a good idea, to allow your turtle to dive if wanted, but also be able to stay in shallower water. The depth of the water depends on the size of your turtle, as they should be able to dive down approximately 4 x their carapace length. The tops of any platforms should be fully out of the water to make sure your turtle has the opportunity to dry out completely to prevent shell rot. Your turtle’s water also needs to be treated with tap/aqua safe, heated and filtered.

 

The minimum tank size for an adult should be 90x30cm, but the bigger the tank you can provide, the better your turtles will do. For juvenile turtles the minimum should be 60x30cm for up to two turtles and increasing in size for larger groups.

 

Temperature

All reptiles are cold blooded and need an external heat source to maintain their body temperature. For aquatic turtles you will need to monitor the water temperature, the basking surface temperature and the humidity. Juvenile water temperature: 23-26ºC Adult water temperature: 20-23ºC Humidity: 30-40% Basking surface temperature: 29-32ºC

Wire mesh guards should be fitted over all hot heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns. The heat comes from the basking spot light and the heater in the water. Your pet shop will advise on heating products and their use suitable for your turtle.

 

Lighting

Turtles are nocturnal and require UVB lighting to fully absorb and utilise the calcium in their diet. A basking spot light and UV tube/light should be used over the basking area of the turtle. The wattage/strength of these depends on the size of the turtles, how many are in the same tank and on temperatures currently being achieved. This light should be left on all day and turned off on a night to allow the turtle to achieve an appropriate day & night cycle, as they would in nature. The bulbs will need replacing from time to time and your pet shop will advise you.

 

Furnishings

The floor of the cage should be covered with a suitable substrate such as sand. If using a product like Calci-sand it is recommended that a rich source of calcium is supplied so that the animals do not ingest too much of the substrate as a calcium source (resulting in possible gut impaction). Provide enrichment for the turtles to swim around and climb on, such as rocks, plants or bark. Always make sure your turtles cannot get stuck between any of your décor and they can get in and out of the water easily. It is important for Musk turtles to bask to keep their shell in good condition, so you will need to also give your turtles two platforms (one on either side of the tank); one of these platforms will be for basking under your lights and the other is to allow your turtle to get out of the water in a cooler environment.

 

 

Cleaning

Remove droppings and uneaten food daily. Check filter is running correctly and not clogged. Test PH of water weekly and using the water testing guidelines act accordingly – testing your water can indicate when you need to do a water change, etc. Apart from if your testing indicates a water change, this should only need to be done every fortnight if you have a powerful enough filter. A full tank clean should be done every 1-3 months.

Hibernation/Brumation - This mainly occurs in the wild if and when temperatures drop low enough, however they don’t need to in captivity if their conditions remain stable and comfortable. You can induce hibernation by carefully controlling temperatures if you want them to do so though, although this is a complicated procedure and you should ideally seek professional advice before you hibernate your turtle. Before you consider hibernating your turtle, it should be of sufficient size and weight and be showing no signs of illness to cope with the stress of hibernation.

Feeding Musk turtles are carnivorous and will eat a variety of different things including brine shrimp, bloodworm, crickets or turtle pellets. It is important to give your turtle a complete and balanced diet, which you pet shop will advise on. Dust food with calcium+D3 powder (such as Komodo Nutrical) twice a week. The UVB lighting and supplements work in hand to keep your turtles shell and bones strong

 

 

General care

A healthy musk turtle should be bright and alert and its carapace should be smooth and the plastron (bottom shell) should be free of any cracks or deformities.

There should be no signs of the following:

  • Soft shell disorders: can be due to a lack of calcium and/or vitamin D3 and/or incorrect lighting.
  • Shell Rot: check your turtle for a smooth plastron and make sure there are no cracks. A pink tinge to the plastron can also indicate shell rot or an infection. Shell rot can be caused by algae, injury to the shell, excess humidity or the shell never being able to fully dry out when basking.
  • Deficiences: such as lacking in Vitamin A or Calcium
  • Diarrhoea: this can be caused by incorrect feeding or internal parasite infestation.
  • Respiratory problems: signs include fluid or mucus from the nose.
  • Mouth rot: cheesy deposits appear in the mouth.


Be careful removing your turtle too much from its habitat, as this can cause problems with their immunity and before moving them make sure you have washed your hands in tap/aqua safe water. Turtles can carry Salmonella, which is most usually contracted by ingestion. Good hygiene practices after handling or cleaning your turtle should be sufficient to prevent any risk of infection.

If you are at all worried about the health of your turtle you should consult your vet or a specialist reptile vet as soon as possible.

 

 

Shopping List

 Enclosure

 Substrate/sand

 Basking spot light

 UVB tube/UVB heat lamp

 Water thermometer

 Hygrometer

 Basking Surface temp. tester

 Tap/Aqua Safe

 Platforms x 2

 Heater

 Light stand/Mounting bracket

 Food

 Filter

 Calcium/D3 powder

 Décor

 Turtle safe cleaning supplies

 Water testing kit

 

 Remember you must never release your pet into the wild.

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Getting a Leopard Gecko

Getting a Leopard Gecko

Reptiles originate from hot, dry deserts or habitats with very specific requirements for their survival.

 

It is very important when considering whether to keep a reptile as a pet, that you understand what sort of controlled environment you will need to provide, and that you learn as much as you can about how to care for them beforehand. At PAWS we have the knowledge and expertise to guide you in caring for your reptile. On these pages we have provided some general information and guidelines about caring for the most popular reptiles, however, we advise that you come and visit us in the shop for a chat about your reptile's specific needs.

 

Leopard geckos are beautiful to look at, easy to keep, stay relatively small (about 25cm) and become very tame. They are mostly nocturnal reptiles and you should keep this in mind before buying one.

 Housing

An escape proof, wooden, plastic or glass vivarium with fitted air vents, minimum size of 60x30cm, are suitable homes for your leopard gecko.

A larger vivarium will be needed if you are keeping a group, but you should only keep them as groups of one male with several females.

 

Furnishing

Desert sand or reptile carpet is a suitable substrate. We sell this in our shop. Do not be tempted to use any other type of non-specialist sand.

Smooth rocks and artificial cacti can be used as décor.

Your gecko will need a hideaway such as a small cave filled with moist moss.

 

Heating

You should have a cool end and a hot end of the vivarium monitored by thermometers and controlled with a thermostat. The hot end should be 30°C-32°C, while the cool end should be 22°C-24°C

Night temperature: 21°C-24°C

Heat should be provided using either underfloor heat mats or spotlights.

 

Lighting

The Leopard Gecko is a nocturnal species, so UVB lighting is not needed. It can be a good idea to provide a weak source of UVB (around 2%) for 2-3 hours a day to re-create the basking conditions that the reptile would typically enjoy in the wild.

 

Humidity

As leopard geckos come from desert areas, they require low level humidity and good ventilation.

 

Diet and feeding

Leopard geckos enjoy live insects such as crickets, locust hoppers and waxworms as a treat. Larger geckos feed on mealworms and adults will take pinky mice.

Feed youngsters daily and adults every other day.

Remove live food from the vivarium after feeding.

Provide a shallow water bowl.

 

IMPORTANT: Food should be dusted with a vitamin and calcium supplement on a regular basis – once or twice a week for non-breeding adults but 3-4 times a week for juveniles and egg-laying females. Failure to do this is highly likely to result in bone malformation and other health problems.

 

Handling

Leopard Geckos are very docile and rarely bite. Movements should be slow and gentle, but confident. Place one hand above the shoulders and support the underside with your other hand.

Never pick your gecko up by the tail, which the animal will drop at the slightest touch. Although it will re-grow, it will not look the same and there is a risk of infection if broken.

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Getting a Corn Snake

Getting a Corn Snake

Reptiles originate from hot, dry deserts or habitats with very specific requirements for their survival.

 

It is very important when considering whether to keep a reptile as a pet, that you understand what sort of controlled environment you will need to provide, and that you learn as much as you can about how to care for them beforehand. At PAWS we have the knowledge and expertise to guide you in caring for your reptile. On these pages we have provided some general information and guidelines about caring for the most popular reptiles, however, we advise that you come and visit us in the shop for a chat about your reptile's specific needs.

 

Corn snakes are even-tempered and have many different colour variations including blood red, striped and albino. They become tame with regular handling, do not grow very big compared to other species and make the ideal first snake.

 

Housing

A well ventilated, heated, escape-proof vivarium is the best housing for your corn snake.

The size of the vivarium you’ll need should be calculated as follows: diagonal of the cage floor = more than half of the snake’s length.

 

Furnishing

Bark or wood shavings are an ideal substrate material.

Avoid newspaper as this is too slippery and can damage the snake’s spine

Provide a hide for the snake at the cool end as well as the hotter end of the vivarium to give the snake a choice.

Provide a climbing branch and artificial plants

 

 

Temperature

Corn snakes need a hot area of around 32°C, with a background daytime temperature of 27°C. At night the temperature should drop to around 22°C.

Gentle heat can be provided using heat mat or heat rocks which are an appropriate size for the vivarium.

More intense heat can be provided using spotlights or heat lamps.

 

Lighting

Corn snakes do not need UVA or UVB lighting as they are mostly nocturnal.

Provide an incandescent daylight bulb or a Reptiglo 2.0 flourescent tube that can be set on a timer to give 10-12 hours of daylight.

A Night Glo bulb could help with nocturnal viewing if required

 

Diet & Feeding

Corn snakes are carnivores and feed on defrosted mice or rats of an appropriate size, as they consume their food whole.

Young snakes can be fed every 2-5 days and adults every 7-14 days.

 

Handling

Hold your snake loosely, supporting the middle and the rear of the body. Your movements should be slow and deliberate.

Always wash your hands after handling your snake as reptiles can carry a form salmonella, so good hygiene practice is important.

Never handle your snake just before, during or just after feeding as this is likely to result in a bite.

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Getting a Bearded Dragon

Getting a Bearded Dragon

Reptiles originate from hot, dry deserts or habitats with very specific requirements for their survival.

 

It is very important when considering whether to keep a reptile as a pet, that you understand what sort of controlled environment you will need to provide, and that you learn as much as you can about how to care for them beforehand. At PAWS we have the knowledge and expertise to guide you in caring for your reptile. On these pages we have provided some general information and guidelines about caring for the most popular reptiles, however, we advise that you come and visit us in the shop for a chat about your reptile's specific needs.

 

Bearded Dragons are one of the easiest lizards to care for. They get their name from the pouch under their neck, which they inflate whenever they feel threatened. Bearded Dragons are docile, friendly and easy to handle making them great pets for older children and adults.

 Housing

An adult bearded dragon will need a vivarium with a minimum length of 90cm. If you’re keeping a pair of dragons, the vivarium will need to measure at least 120cm in length. You will need to provide a hot/basking spot for them and arrange some hiding spaces. Male bearded dragons are territorial so are best housed singly.

 

Furnishing

The bottom of the vivarium should be covered in a substrate such as sand, coconut bark chips, aspen wood-shavings or artificial grass. Provide something for your dragon to climb on such as a branch or secure rockwork. Provide shelter such as a piece of cork bark and additional bark. Include a spotlight or UV lamp for basking.

 

Temperature

One end of the vivarium should be heated. This creates a thermal gradient allowing lizards to choose its preferred temperature. Thermal gradient: 26°C-28°C at the cool end, up to 40°C at the hot end. Night time Temperature: minimum 16°C-18°C for adults.

 Lighting

Bearded Dragons require high intensity UVB lighting in order to fully absorb and utilise the calcium in their diet. Lighting should be left on for 12-14 hours per day.

 

Humidity

Bearded dragons require low humidity and good ventilation.

 

Diet and Feeding

Bearded Dragons are omnivores so enjoy a varied diet of live insects, fruit and vegetables.

Their diet should include: crickets, locusts, giant mealworms, pinkie mice, kale, dandelion, watercress, carrots, courgettes, parsley, apples, pears and berries in limited quantities.

We can advise you about how much and how regularly to feed your dragon based on its age. Ask us in-store.

 

 

Handling

To pick up your dragon, place one hand above the shoulder and support the underside with your other hand.

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Getting a Tortoise

Getting a Tortoise

Reptiles originate from hot, dry deserts or habitats with very specific requirements for their survival.

The species of Mediterranean tortoises originate from the countries surrounding the Mediterranean and the Middle East. Their natural habitat is grassland and shrub where there is a lot of sunshine and light shade. The most common species kept in the UK is the Hermann’s tortoise. Although other species such as the Spur-thighed and Marginated tortoise are kept. A species requiring generally similar husbandry in captivity is the increasingly popular Horsfield’s tortoise. Tortoises will grow annually in the right conditions and their shell scutes grow somewhat like the rings of a tree. Mediterranean tortoises can reach sizes in excess of 20- 25cm in some instances. Life expectancy up to 80 years or more under ideal conditions.

It is very important when considering whether to keep a reptile as a pet, that you understand what sort of controlled environment you will need to provide, and that you learn as much as you can about how to care for them beforehand. At PAWS we have the knowledge and expertise to guide you in caring for your reptile. On these pages we have provided some general information and guidelines about caring for the most popular reptiles, however, we advise that you come and visit us in the shop for a chat about your reptile's specific needs.

 

The most common species of tortoise available in the UK is the Horsefield tortoise, the Hermann’s tortoise or the Spur-thigh tortoise. They can reach a size of around 20cm and have specific requirements regarding their care. You should also carefully consider their lifespan. Tortoises can live between 50 to 80 years, which is a long time to be responsible for a pet. If you do decide to opt for a tortoise and can provide all their requirements, they are ideal for the first-time keeper as they are hardy and do well in our climate.

 

Housing

Ideally your tortoise should have an indoor area and access to outdoors. Indoor accommodation: A purpose built enclosure (often called tortoise tables) are optimal, although large vivariums with good ventilation can also be used successfully, especially over limited time periods. The minimum cage size for an adult should be 90x30x40 cm for babies up to a 6cm carapace, rising to 2 square metres for adults but the bigger and more varied the habitat provided the more likely the tortoise is to do well. Outdoor accommodation: Tortoise should have access to escape proof outdoor accommodation whenever the weather is suitable. Ideally situated where there is natural non-toxic vegetation. Provide a basking area and opportunities to climb. All outdoor accommodation should be fox proof and a fully covered enclosure is essential for small tortoise to protect them from airborne predators.

 

Furnishing

 The floor of the cage should be covered with a suitable substrate such as, Coconut bark chips, Aspen wood shavings, Calci-sand or artificial grass – if using a product like Calci-sand it is recommended that a rich source of calcium is supplied so that the animals do not ingest too much of the substrate as a calcium source (resulting in possible gut impaction). Provide a shelter, perhaps with a piece of cork bark and additional bark or branches to create areas for climbing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heating

 All reptiles are cold blooded and need an external heat source to maintain their body temperature. Each species requires different degrees of heating, but all will benefit from a range of temperatures within the indoor enclosure. One end should be heated. This creates a thermal gradient allowing the tortoise to choose its preferred temperature. Thermometers can be placed at each end to monitor the temperature range. The overall temperature should be controlled by a thermostat. Wire mesh guards should be fitted over all hot heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns. Heat can be supplied by spotlights and/or UV heat lamps. Your pet shop will advise on heating products and their use suitable for your tortoise. Create a thermal gradient of 18-20°C at the cool end and 30-32°C at the hot end. Night temperature can safely be dropped to 18° or even a bit lower.

 

Lighting

Tortoises are diurnal and require strong UVB lighting to fully absorb and utilize the calcium in their diet. This light should be left on for 12- 14 hours in the day. The bulbs will need replacing from time to time and your pet shop will advise you.

 

Humidity

Maintain low levels of humidity. A damp habitat can increase the risk of breathing problems.

 

Cleaning

Remove droppings and uneaten food daily. Water and food bowls should be washed, dried and refilled daily. Vivariums should be completely cleaned out and disinfected with a pet-safe disinfectant regularly. Soiled substrate should be disposed of and replaced. Deodorisers can be used in the indoor enclosure - your pet shop will advise.

 

Diet & Feeding

Mediterranean tortoises are herbivores. Provide a varied high fibre diet low in fat and protein. Commercial pellets are available as part of a balanced diet and your pet shop will advise. Vegetables: Mixed vegetables and as many weeds and herbs such as, dandelion, groundsel, clover, sowthistle, etc. as possible – natural grazing in outdoor enclosures is ideal. Fruit: apples, berries, fresh and frozen (thawed), grapes, kiwi, pear, fed only occasionally in very small amounts since high sugar content in the diet is dangerous. A Calcium supplement and a separate multi vitamin should be added to the food provided. Fresh water should always be available.

 

 

Hibernation

his is a complicated procedure and you should ideally seek professional advice before you hibernate your tortoise., However before you consider hibernating your tortoise, it should be of sufficient size and weight and be showing no signs of illness to cope with the stress of hibernation. Your tortoise should be fasted for 2-3 weeks before hibernation (though fresh water must be provided). Your hibernation box should be well ventilated and be made of rat proof materials. The temperature should not fall below 2-3 C and not above 8C (optimum temperature is 5C). You should check your tortoise at regular intervals during hibernation. A reliable refrigerator set at the correct temperature can be ideal for this purpose.

 

Tortoises and the law

Mediterranean tortoises are protected by CITES regulations, all can only be legally sold (with the exception of the Horsfield’s tortoise), with a DEFRA Article 10 Exemption Certificate. They must be micro-chipped when big enough if being sold.

 

Shopping List

 Indoor enclosure & provision for outdoor enclosure

 Substrate

 Heat mat/spotlight

 UVB tube/UVB heat lamp

 Thermometers x 2

 Thermostat

 Food and water bowl

 Calcium supplement

 Pet safe disinfectant

 Cage furnishings

 Vitamin supplement

 Tortoise care book

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